Machu Picchu, the mystical city of the Incas, attracts thousands of visitors worldwide yearly. For me, a small dream is coming true. Visiting the ruins has long been at the top of my wish list. In our Machu Picchu travel report, we take you along on our journey and reveal how you can perfectly plan your visit.
The Ruins of Machu Picchu – Historical Background
Machu Picchu is an ancient Inca settlement that was likely built in the 15th century at an altitude of 2,430 meters on the ridge between the Wayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountains. The settlement is located 75 kilometers from Cusco and is still connected to the city via the old Inca trails as well as today's railway.
According to a theory, the city was built around 1450 by order of the Inca ruler Pachacútec Yupanqui, who reigned from 1438 to 1471. The city comprised 216 stone structures situated on terraces and connected by a system of stairs. It is believed that the city could accommodate and sustain up to 1,000 people.
The Purpose of Machu Picchu – What was the City intended for?
There are various theories as to why or for what purpose the city was established. Since there are no historical records, these theories are entirely based on archaeological excavations.
Theory 1: One theory suggests that it was a royal-religious refuge for the Incas, where the ruler, the Virgins of the Sun, and various servants resided. After the outbreak of a civil war, the site was supposedly no longer visited by any Inca king, which is why it was eventually abandoned by the remaining servants.
Theory 2: A second theory posits that the site was still under construction at the time of the Spanish conquest. The construction work was halted due to the conquest, and the site was abandoned. However, archaeological findings indicate a mostly completed city with only some areas still under construction. For instance, the city had a water supply system that still functions today, completed residential houses, and a rainwater drainage system.
Theory 3: Another theory suggests that it was a temporary ruler's residence, serving as a second home for relaxation away from the main residence in Cusco.
The (Re)Discovery of Machu Picchu
The date of the discovery or rediscovery of Machu Picchu is considered to be July 24, 1911. Hiram Bingham led an expedition from Yale University to find the Inca city of Vilcabamba. The Incas were believed to have fled to Vilcabamba after Cusco was taken by the Spanish in 1536. However, Vilcabamba was not actually discovered until the 1960s through aerial photographs.
Bingham found the Inca settlement overgrown with dense vegetation and began excavating the city in 1912 and 1913. The city gained worldwide fame when National Geographic dedicated its entire April 1913 issue to it.
Rumors persist that Bingham had discovered the city two years earlier and took the time to transport finds such as gold and grave goods to the United States. Nowadays, all of Bingham's finds have been transferred back to Peru. Some of these artifacts can be seen at the Museo Machupicchu Casa Concha in Cusco.
The Dispute with UNESCO over the World Heritage Site
Since 1983, the ruins and the surrounding protected area, Santuario Histórico de Machupicchu, have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, Machu Picchu is one of the largest tourist attractions in South America, providing a significant source of revenue for Peru and especially the surrounding communities. At the same time, the high number of visitors poses a major challenge to the preservation of the ruins and the environment.
In recent years, the daily number of visitors has steadily increased. For a while, a cable car was also under discussion, which, however, would significantly weaken the fragile mountain further. There have already been landslides in 2004, 2005, and 2010. Currently, up to 5,600 visitors are allowed to the ruins daily. However, the UNESCO demands a reduction to a maximum of 800 visitors per day to avoid endangering the cultural heritage.
Our Visit to Machu Picchu – A Travel Report
Journey to Hydroelectrica
We travel together with our Swiss travel friends via Ollantaytambo to Hydroelectrica. From Quillabamba, the road becomes more adventurous. Instead of asphalt, we now have sand and gravel under our wheels, and at some points, only one vehicle can fit on the narrow track. Since the route is currently being expanded, there is also heavy truck traffic. With the help of the Chinese, tunnels are being built and the route is being asphalted. It's hard to believe that the road is only now being developed. We frequently have to wait as traffic is only allowed through in one direction. There are always some vehicles pushing to the front of the forming line of cars. There is a lot of honking, and once a driver even gets loud and blocks the way. This doesn’t speed things up, but patience doesn't seem to be a strength here. At least not when it comes to driving.
The drive to Hydroelectrica takes 2.5 hours. We park the campers at the Escobar family's property. They have a plot of land by the river where we have access to a toilet, a cold shower, and a small restaurant. Here, we can leave the car for the two nights in Aguas Calientes for 20 Soles (5 €) per day.
Hike to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)
After Mat's workday, we start our hike to Aguas Calientes at 12:30 PM. We don't encounter many other tourists, probably because most start their hike earlier. We are grateful for the dense forest that surrounds the trail, providing shade and making the walk pleasant. The path runs continuously along the train tracks, and we frequently pass small restaurants and cafes. However, we don't stop at any of them. We want to reach the ticket office in Aguas Calientes as quickly as possible to hopefully still be able to choose our desired route from the various options available.
At 3 PM, we arrive in Aguas Calientes. Shortly thereafter, we stand in front of the ticket office. We receive a slip with a number (394 & 395) and a time at which we should return to purchase our tickets: 5 PM. So, we first head to the hotel to check in.
Our accommodation in short: you get what you pay for. Our room doesn't have a window to the outside, but it does have one facing the staircase. We have to keep it open at night due to the lack of ventilation. We prefer to move the small table, which we use for our belongings, to the other corner since anyone could reach in through the window. At least the shower is one of the best we've had in South America. You can't have everything.
Buying Tickets or The Musical Chairs
We quickly eat a cake and have a coffee at the café next door, and true to German punctuality, we are standing in line at 4:55 PM. The line grows longer by the minute, and the first people start getting impatient. Meanwhile, people with numbers called for 6 PM start arriving. There’s no information on how long the wait will be. We’re glad we had some cake beforehand. Finally, at 6:15 PM, something happens: numbers 300–399 are called and allowed into the building, including us. The waiting continues inside, and the process turns into a game of musical chairs. We all sit on chairs in a long row that winds through the entire building. Every time someone is called to one of the four ticket counters, everyone stands up and moves the corresponding chairs forward. This goes on for an hour. We take it with humor. After an hour we finally reach the counter. All routes are still available, and we get our preferred route to Wayna Picchu. We pay 200 Soles per person, which is about 50 €. Quite expensive for a visit. Payment must be made in cash in Soles. Luckily, there is an ATM in town. We, being scatterbrained, hadn’t thought about withdrawing enough cash beforehand. The ATM in Aguas Calientes hasn't been around for long.
After the whole ticket ordeal, we are starving and go to eat burgers first.
Early Start: The Journey to the Ruins
Da wir auf den Berg hochwandern und um 6 Uhr bereits am Haupteingang sein müssen, entscheiden wir uns das Geld für den Bus zu zahlen und stellen uns um 5 Uhr in die Schlange für den Bus. Der erste Bus fährt um 5.30 Uhr ab, danach etwa im 5 Minutentakt.
Fortunately, there is no traffic on the route. We speed up the switchbacks at a rapid pace. The large km/h display at the front reminds us that the bus is going a bit too fast for the winding road. Mats says it's good that it's still dark; we can't see how steep it is next to us going down...
Entrance to the World Heritage Site
We line up. Right at 6 AM, the entrance opens. The tickets are scanned, and we're in.
We climb up a few steep stairs. We pass the first route sign and realize it only shows the directions for routes 1 & 2. Slightly confused, we continue along route 2. Shortly after, we come to the first checkpoint. The guard explains that we are in the wrong place and should go back, but then waves us through. We both really didn’t see any sign for the turnoff. However, this unplanned detour allows us to capture the coveted postcard photo.
We continue walking and suddenly realize that we seemingly have the ruins all to ourselves. Everyone seems to have lingered at the viewpoint. There's something magical about being here so early in the morning. Everything is still bathed in a bluish light. Before us, the majestic Wayna Picchu rises with terraces and houses at its base.
Hike up Wayna Picchu
We head to the entrance of Wayna Picchu. We have to sign our names and the time on a list, then we can start the hike. The trail is not long but steep. At some points, we even need to use our hands. It takes us an hour to reach the top. We are the first ones up here.
The steep climb rewards us with a breathtaking view of the ruins and the surrounding mountain peaks. We unpack bread and avocados and take a small breakfast break before starting our descent.
Wir unterschreiben auf der Liste, tragen unsere Rückkehruhrzeit ein und machen uns auf den Rückweg. Dieses Mal korrekt entlang dem Weg der Rute 3. Jetzt sind auch einiges mehr Touristen unterwegs. Stellenweise geht es nur noch in Reihen voran oder wir müssen uns durchschlängeln.
Return to Aguas Calientes
When we reach the exit, we realize that there was a separate entrance for route 3. The sign is so small that it's hardly noticeable amidst the crowds of tourists. Even at the ticket control at the entrance, it seems no one paid attention to it.
I feel my old knee pain, so we decide to save ourselves from the steep descent. We had originally planned to walk back, but $24 is worth it to spare the knee. We buy two tickets and get in line. The line is very long. It takes 30 minutes before we get a seat on the bus. Fortunately, a bus departs every 5 minutes.
Back in Aguas Calientes, we have lunch and explore the town a bit. We spend one more night in our hotel room with a window facing the hallway before hiking back to Hydroelectrica the next morning.
Practical Information for Your Visit to Machu Picchu
Getting to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)
The starting point for a visit to Machu Picchu is the village of Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo. This village can only be reached by train from Cusco or Hydroelectrica, or on foot from Hydroelectrica. There are no road connections to Aguas Calientes.
The Comfortable Option: Taking the Train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes
From Cusco, a train by Inca Rail and Peru Rail departs daily via Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. From Cusco, a one-way trip costs $60 and up. Those wanting to travel with the luxury train Belmond Hiram Bingham may spend up to $500 for a one-way trip.
From the intermediate stops, the fare is only slightly cheaper. For example, from Ollantaytambo, a one-way trip still costs $50.
The Cheaper Option: Arrival from Hydroelectrica
The cheaper option is arriving from Hydroelectrica. Daily minibuses run from Cusco or the surrounding areas to the village of Hydroelectrica.
From Hydroelectrica, you can either continue on foot or by train.
Continuing the Journey by Train
The train departs from Hydroelectrica twice a day. The 45-minute journey costs $40 per trip.
Continuing on Foot – The Cheapest Option
The cheapest option is to hike from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes. Plan about 2.5 hours for the 11 kilometers. It is an easy hike, mostly flat and running along the train tracks. The 200 meters of elevation gain are spread over the entire 11 kilometers to Aguas Calientes. The path is almost continuously shaded, making the hike very pleasant. Many small restaurants, cafes, bars, and kiosks near Hydroelectrica and Aguas Calientes provide for refreshment breaks along the way. Occasionally, you'll need to make way for passing trains, which announce themselves early with loud honking.
Parking Vehicles Safely in Hydroelectrica
There are several options for parking your vehicle in Hydroelectrica. Day-trippers who will continue their journey by train often park directly at the Hydroelectrica train station. Those staying a few nights in Aguas Calientes can safely leave their vehicle at places like the Escobar family's place (iOverlander) for 20 Soles a day.
Tickets and Routes
Tickets can be purchased online or on-site. A maximum of 5,600 people are allowed into the ruins daily. Prices range from 152 Soles (38 €) for a standard ticket to 200 Soles (50 €) for a ticket that includes access to sites like Wayna Picchu.
Online Tickets
Online tickets are sometimes sold out weeks or even months in advance. However, purchasing them online saves time and avoids the hassle of queuing at the ticket office. The coveted tickets are available online at this website..
Purchase Tickets at the ticketoffice
Daily, 1,000 tickets are reserved for sale in Aguas Calientes. These can be purchased on-site at the ticket office. 1,000 tickets may seem like a lot, but depending on the season, they can sell out quickly. On iOverlander, various reports can be read. Sometimes it seems very straightforward, with full availability of routes, while other times, almost everything seems to be sold out, and the process can be quite disappointing. So, some luck is required if you want to purchase tickets on-site.
Ticket Prices
Prices range from 152 Soles (38 €) for a standard ticket to 200 Soles (50 €) for a ticket that includes access to, for example, the Wayna Picchu mountain.
Route selection
To distribute the 5,600 daily visitors, there are 3 main routes, each further divided into sub-routes. In total, there are 10 routes to choose from. Not all routes are available throughout the day. For example, the route to Wayna Picchu is only available at 7:00 and 9:00 AM. This ensures that visitors are distributed not only by route choice but also by time. Online, you can find a detailed route overview including maps.
Those wanting to take the classic postcard photo should choose Route 2, which passes by the typical viewpoints with a view of the ruins and Wayna Picchu in the background. Along the way, guards check tickets at certain junctions to ensure everyone is on their designated route.
The tickets are time-bound. There is a time window (usually about 45 – 60 minutes) during which you must appear at the entrance to the ruins and be admitted.
Travel from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu ruins
From Aguas Calientes, it's two kilometers to the ruins. The road winds up the mountain in several switchbacks. The route can be taken either by bus or by walking up an even steeper path.
By bus to the ruins of Machu Picchu
Tickets for the bus are available at the ticket office (for the bus) or online. You can buy a round-trip ticket directly, or purchase the return ticket later at the entrance to the ruins. The tickets are not time-bound. A one-way trip costs $12, and a round trip is $24.
Walking to the ruins of Machu Picchu
The narrow footpath climbs steeply up the mountain, partly via stairs, and crosses the road several times. Depending on your fitness level and where you stay in Aguas Calientes, you should plan approximately 1 to 1.5 hours for the walk.
What you should know otherwise
Toilets: There are no toilets inside the site. You should use the restroom at the entrance, as you are not able to visit the toilet during your time at the ruins. Once you leave, you will not be allowed back in.
Bags and backpacks / Luggage storageBags and backpacks up to a maximum size of 40x35x20 cm are allowed inside the site. At the entrance, there is an option to store luggage. The storage fee is 5 Soles. However, we didn’t feel that this was strictly enforced.
Hiking SticksHiking and walking sticks are only allowed for individuals with mobility issues. How and whether this is checked is questionable.
Drones: Drohnen sind in der Anlage nicht erlaubt.
