Mine tour in Potosí: An insight into the harsh reality of Cerro Rico

Potosí, der Name einer Stadt, die einst für grenzenlosen Reichtum stand, ist heute ein eindrucksvolles Zeugnis einer Vergangenheit und einer Gegenwart die geprägt ist von glitzerndem Silber, Ausbeutung und unvorstellbar harter Arbeit unter Tage. Der Cerro Rico, der „reiche Berg“, thront über der Minenstadt auf 4000 Metern als Symbol für Überflusses und die jahrhundertelange Ausbeutung. Bei unserem Besuch hatten wir die Gelegenheit, in die Tiefen des Cerro Ricos einzutauchen und mit Wilson und Pedro, zwei ehemaligen Mineros, im Rahmen einer Minentour in Potosí ,einen kurzen Einblick in die Realität der Mineros  zu erhalten.

Cerro Rico – "the mountain that eats people"

The history of Cerro Rico

Cerro Rico means "rich mountain." It is located in the city of Potosí in southwestern Bolivia at over 4000 meters. For centuries, Cerro Rico housed the most significant silver deposits in history.

Rich mountain. It primarily enriched the Spanish Empire. In 1545, the Spanish began extracting the silver deposits. During the colonial period, the silver made Potosí one of the largest and richest cities in the world. From the 16th to the 18th century, 80% of the world’s silver came from the mines of Cerro Rico.

The working conditions in Cerro Rico

The Spanish forced thousands of indigenous people to work in the mines. Due to the numerous deaths, the Spanish Empire additionally brought millions of slaves from Africa to Potosí. Only a few survived the daily work, characterized by hard physical labor, long shifts underground, and the lack of oxygen in the mines over 4000 meters high.

Auch in den Raffinerien starben viele Menschen aufgrund des ständigen und intensiven Kontakts mit Quecksilber. Insgesamt 8 Millionen Menschen sollen von 1545 bis 1825 in und im Zusammenhang mit der Mine ihr Leben verloren haben. „Der Berg, der Menschen frisst“ –  diesen Beinamen trägt der Cerro Rico nicht ohne Grund.

Even today, silver is still mined, but the veins are largely exhausted. Instead, zinc and lead are primarily extracted. However, the hope for a big find continues to drive the men. At over 4000 meters, the air is thin, and in the tunnels, there's hardly any left. Temperatures fluctuate between below zero and up to 46 degrees. The lack of adequate protective gear and proper equipment is the norm.

Hardly any miner lives beyond the age of 40. Day after day, they are exposed to the dangerous dust. Most die from silicosis after 7 to 15 years.

The working world of the Mineros – Mine tour in Potosí with Wilson and Pedro from Big Deal Tours

We want to learn more about the mines that are so closely linked to Potosí and its history. Wilson and Pedro used to work in the mine themselves. Today, they earn their living by guiding tourists through the mine. For the former Mineros, this is a good alternative when they are no longer able to work in the mine. Our protective gear consists of thin fabric pants, a thin fabric shirt, rubber boots, and a helmet with a lamp. Respiratory masks are not part of the equipment; we bought them ourselves at the pharmacy beforehand.

The Mercado de los Mineros: From Coca to Dynamite

The mine tour in Potosí begins at the Mercado de los Mineros – the miners' market. For many Mineros, this is the first stop in the morning. In addition to the usual fruit and vegetable stands, you can buy everything needed for work underground here, from gloves and tools to coca and dynamite. It is the only market in Bolivia where dynamite can be legally purchased.

We buy gifts for the Mineros. It’s not mandatory, but a nice gesture. Wilson recommends coca leaves, gloves, and soft drinks. However, he asks us not to buy alcohol, as children also work in the mines, and he doesn’t want them to have access to it. The alcohol in this case is a clear liquid in a plastic bottle labeled 96%. One liter is cheaper than a can of beer and is therefore popular. We follow Wilson’s recommendation and additionally buy two sticks of dynamite, which Wilson carries himself for safety reasons. 

"I was 8 when I bought my first stick of dynamite at the market," Wilson tells us. Child labor is prohibited, but few people care. Even though there are fewer children working in the mines today, there are still far too many. 

From Rock to Mineral: Insights into the Refinery and the Lives of the Mineros

Our next stop is one of the refineries, where the minerals are separated from the rock. It’s a dirty process. Nowadays, mostly tin and lead are extracted from the rocks; silver has become rare. Lama blood stains the walls, meant to appease El Tío, the god of the mountain, and to ask for protection during work.

From there, we head into the mountain. Cerro Rico is crisscrossed with numerous tunnels, resembling a Swiss cheese, which is how it’s said to look inside as well. A few years ago, the summit of the mountain sank several meters and had to be stabilized with ultralight cement—a consequence of centuries of uncontrolled mining. As a result, UNESCO has placed Potosí and Cerro Rico on the list of endangered World Heritage sites.

Wilson explains that the Mineros chew coca leaves while working. The leaves are stripped from their stems, moistened with saliva, and placed into the cheek until a small ball forms. Then, a bit of baking soda or activated charcoal is added to enhance the effect. This prepares the Mineros for their work in the tunnels. Coca is believed to combat fatigue and make the work at over 4000 meters easier. The taste lasts for about four hours. Once it fades, the Mineros know it’s time for a break before the next four-hour shift begins. Coca, alcohol, and soft drinks help them endure the shift—eating only takes place afterward.

Inside Cerro Rico: Narrow Tunnels and Unwritten Rules

We switch on our lamps and enter the tunnel. Slowly, our eyes adjust to the darkness. Thick hoses run along the walls, transporting air for the pneumatic drills. "To the side!" Wilson shouts to us. Workers with wheelbarrows repeatedly pass by, hauling rocks outside. The narrow passages barely allow room for two people side by side. The workers look like teenagers. Later, I read that these tasks are often performed by children. We quickly lose our sense of direction in this stone labyrinth. There are no maps of the tunnels. "The map is in the minds of the Mineros," Wilson explains.

Above us, the ceiling sparkles. "Someone could get rich here," Wilson remarks. But nothing can be mined in this spot because there's another tunnel directly above. Mining here would cause the tunnel to collapse. Who sets these rules? "No one," Wilson replies, "every Minero knows them instinctively."

In the Realm of El Tío: Superstition and Underground Rituals

All throughout the mountain, small niches with horned figures can be found. Above ground, the Mineros are Catholics, but down here, it is the realm of El Tío. He rules over the mines, offering protection and bringing destruction. El Tío is lavishly adorned with streamers. Around him lie offerings meant to appease the god of the mountain: coca leaves, cigarettes, and alcohol. Wilson lights a cigarette and places it in El Tío’s mouth. Then he passes us a small bottle of 96% alcohol. It burns in the throat. Wilson offers the bottle again. I decline politely, but Wilson insists, as odd numbers bring bad luck. This applies not only to the number of sips of alcohol but also to the number of llamas sacrificed for good fortune. It can be 2, 4, 20, or even 40 llamas, but never 3, 5, or 7. That brings bad luck.

The blood of the llamas is smeared at the entrances of the tunnels, in the refineries, and even inside the tunnels themselves. It is considered an offering meant to secure the favor of the mountain spirit and avert misfortune. This is a tradition deeply rooted in the culture of the miners.

Explosive Arbeit: Dynamit und Risiken im Cerro Rico

In einer Sackgasse bleiben wir stehen. Weiter geht es nur eine Ebene tiefer. Dort bohren zwei Männer Löcher in den Stollen und führen Dynamit ein. Dicker Staub umhüllt sie. Wilson erzählt von Unfällen und Explosionen, von giftigen Gasen, die sich in einigen Stollen ansammeln. Immer wieder hören wir Dynamit Explosionen den Berg erschüttern. Wir denken an die Plastikflaschen mit der Aufschrift „96 %“. Keine gute Kombination.

Wilson explains how, in the past, the rock was removed with hammer and chisel. However, not every Minero can afford pneumatic drills and hammers. Some cooperatives provide tools for their members, while in others, the Mineros must buy their own protective gear and equipment. The two workers are finished. We help maneuver the tools up using a small pulley. Then, the fuses are lit. Wilson leads us into a narrow, low tunnel. He explains that this one is safer than the higher ones. We crouch down on the ground. Boom! We count to ten as the mountain shakes threateningly with each detonation. Hopefully, El Tío is in a good mood today.

Finally, Wilson leads us back to daylight. We return to the city. This is where our mine tour in Potosí ends. It has left a lasting impression.

The Work and Organization of the Cooperatives

Today, the workers are primarily organized into various cooperatives. These were established in the 1980s as a response to the closure of state-owned mines and the privatization of the mining sector. The creation of these cooperatives allowed the workers to take control of mineral extraction and manage their profits independently. The cooperatives vary in their structure and organization.

Profit Distribution: Einige verteilen die Gewinne gleichmäßig unter den Mitgliedern, wodurch das Risiko und die Erträge kollektiv getragen werden. In anderen Kooperativen arbeiten die Mineros eigenverantwortlicher, sodass das Einkommen direkt von ihrer individuellen Leistung und ihrem individuellen Glück abhängt, was zu Einkommensunterschieden führen kann.

Provision of Tools: Some cooperatives provide tools, machinery, and explosives that workers can use. In others, the workers are responsible for procuring their own equipment, which incurs additional costs.

Protection: Within the cooperatives, there is a minimal health and pension plan. If a miner loses 50% of their lung capacity, they can stop working in the mine and receive about 15 US dollars per month. After their death, this amount is passed on to their wife and children.

Conclusion: Lasting Impressions and Insights from Our Mine Tour in Potosí

The mine tour in Potosí with Wilson and Pedro through Cerro Rico left a deep and lasting impression on us. Seeing firsthand the conditions under which the Mineros work, and understanding the extent to which our wealth is built on mines like this, was a profound, albeit difficult, realization. Experiencing the narrow tunnels and witnessing the dynamite explosions up close brought us closer to the reality of the miners' lives. The tour not only informs but also left us with lasting thoughts—about global resource extraction, the sacrifices of the miners, and our own responsibility.

Practical Tips and Information for the Mine Tour in Potosí