Surrounded by dense, lush green forest, the road winds its way to the ferry that crosses the Rio Palena to Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda. The gray rain clouds, still hanging from the previous day on the mountain peaks, give the landscape a mystical quality. Occasionally, you catch a glimpse of the turquoise course of the Rio Palena winding through the landscape and the towering, partly snow-covered mountains and volcanoes.
Quite unexpectedly, we discovered Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda, a jewel on the coast of Chile. Breathtaking fjord landscapes, dense lush green jungle, and wide beaches. We see more penguins than people. Dolphins are swimming past our window every day.
Raul Marin Balmaceda is a great place for marine fauna and bird watching, offering exceptional forest landscapes and tranquility, which we fully enjoy.
About Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda
In the north, the steep mountain slopes of Corcovado National Park rise, while in the south, the impressive Melimoyu Volcano towers. The sleepy little village of Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda is located on a small island, surrounded by the sea, fjords, and the Palena River. It is particularly impressive due to its diverse natural landscape. Although the 80-kilometer-long gravel road is quite good and the village is connected via the Chilean ferry system, few tourists come here. We feel a bit like we are at the end of the world. Even though some tourists do find their way here, it is comparatively few who make the detour from the Carretera Austral.
Activities
Wildlife Watching from the Beach
We unpack our camping chairs and set them up with a view of the fjord. The small island is perfect for enjoying a few days of tranquility away from the tourist hustle and bustle. It doesn't take long before we spot the first Magellanic penguin in the water. These nimble animals are searching for food here. If you sit for a while, you can also spot dolphins swimming past the beach. With a bit of luck, you might even see a sea lion.
Chucao and Arrayanes Trail – The Path Through the Dense Jungle
A large part of the island is covered with dense, lush green forest. The Chucao Trail leads through this forest. Chucao, by the way, is a small bird that has given this short hiking trail its melodious name. And indeed, we discover this little curious fellow with the melodious voice more than once. The forest is magical. Surrounded by ferns, lianas, and trees that look enchanted, we slowly make our way along the narrow path, accompanied by cheerful chirping from the treetops.
We extended the short hike a bit by walking along the beach for the first part before taking the path through the forest back to the village.
A map with an overview of the hiking trails and viewpoints is available at the website of Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda.
Kayak and Boat Tours
If you want to observe more animals, you can book kayak trips through the fjord or boat tours in the village, which, for example, lead to the nearby Hermosa Islands. However, the cost of 75 € per person for a boat tour was too high for us, so we decided against it. Those interested can either inquire at the tourist information in the village or find out more through the website of Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda .
Accommodation and Food
Accommodation in Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda
We park our camper directly on the beach a little outside the village. It's pleasantly quiet here, perfect for daily beach walks, and we can watch penguins and dolphins directly from our spot. There is also a campsite in the village, but we did not check it out during our stay. Additionally, there are some bed & breakfasts and guesthouses in the village.
Information can be found on the website of Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda.
Restaurants in Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda
There are a few small restaurants in the village. We tried Isla de Palena and can highly recommend it. The menu mainly features local fish specialties. The owner also speaks English and is happy to provide information about the area and help with planning activities.
Supermarkets and ATMs
There is no ATM on the island, so bring enough cash. Paying with a German credit card was possible for us both in the supermarket and in the restaurant without any problems. There are two small local supermarkets that have some basic things including some vegetables and fruits.
Es gibt zwei kleine lokale Supermärkte, die das nötigste führen – inklusive ein wenig Obst und Gemüse.
Arrival
With our own car, we turn from La Junta onto the X-12. This road has only existed since 2009. It is unpaved but in good condition. For 80 kilometers, it winds through dense, lush green forest until it reaches the ferry terminal. Here, you can cross the river several times a day with a small ferry. There is a lunch break from 12 to 3 p.m. The ferry is free and does not need to be booked. From there, it's about another 15 minutes to reach the village.
Additionally, ferries regularly travel between Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Puerto Chacabuco, and Quellón on Chiloe.
